Once India’s greatest tourist attraction after the Taj Mahal, Kashmir has been scarred by two decades of violence, as separatists fought to expel Indian forces and the army sought to crush the rebellion. Mr. Zubin Mehta, a former music director of the New York Philharmonic who performed in the ruins of the Sarajevo library in Bosnia in 1994, dreamed of repeating that triumph here, playing for an audience of “Hindus and Muslims sitting together,” as he put it.